Hobart’s History Comes Alive

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Convict Babies - Remembered.

January 2nd, 2009 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

After Louisa leaves the grim clutches of “The Shadow of Death Valley”, she walks her audience back up to the top of the Cascades. We intentionally make this a time with plenty of room for reflection and silence. There is so much to absorb. So much to digest. As one slightly dazed person said “It’s like coming out of a very powerful film and having to face the daylight”. However, as Louisa promises, we do stop at a few places of interest along the way. One of these is at the top of Degraves Street where, it is thought, that some of the twelve hundred convict babies who died at the Cascades Female Factory lie buried. Here, we pause and have a few “respectful moments” in memory of these poor little souls. It’s always a very poignant time and again, Louisa and William are sensitive to the need for silence afterwards. Remembering that the majority of these infants died of marasmus (malnutrition) or diarrohoea (almost certainly due to a total lack of hygiene) it may not be too strong to use words like “infanticide”?

We were both very keen to visit the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (TMAG) recently to see Anne Ferran’s mixed- media exhibition The Ground, the Air showcasing the women and children who were transported to the Colonies. Having such a strong background in the topic we were, of course, fascinated by Anne’s work; the stark paddocks at the Ross Female Factory could only be there, I recognised them immediately. It is hard to say what most resonated with us. For me, perhaps, it was the “soft caps” mounted on tall images which so spoke of faceless ones, or the actual artifacts; small mounds of soiled clothing and rags. The death register strewn with slips of copperplate writing on which the names of the deceased were written. The woven hangings, depicting the diseases which carried off so many; tuberculosis, marasmus, whooping cough, dysentery, the list goes on. For Chris, it was to see a photograph of those dividing walls which we paint with our words on Louisa’s Walk. Anne Ferran has succeeded in mounting a very powerful and moving exhibition which leaves you thinking about what you have seen for a very long time - just like Louisa’s Walk.

The Ground, the Air uses photography, installation and video to explore how the past haunts the present. Louisa’s Walk uses, words, drama and interpretation to bring history to life. So long as artists like Anne Ferran and Christina Henri ( whose ongoing project to obtain 25,566 convict bonnets from anyone who wants to sew and contribute one - this number represents the number of women who were sent to the Colonies during the years of transportation- see my post on “Convict Bonnets”) are committed to showcasing this shameful period of our history, the profile of our Female Factories will be lifted. Let us not forget either, the ongoing work of the many volunteers who work for the Female Factory Historic Site Inc.

Incidentally, when I first arrived in Tasmania over thirty years ago, no-one owned their convict heritage. That has all changed now and those who have convict ancestry are proud to own it. I used to think it was because they were ashamed of what their ancestors did. Now I think it is because we should all be collectively ashamed of what the British Colonial system inflicted on poor, helpless human beings whose only crime, often, was poverty. This is not to sanitise or romanticise the convicts, of course many were thugs and murderers but so many others were just victims of circumstance. Let us hope that bringing to light the horrors of the past, by whatever medium, we can help to build a more humane world.



Women’s Prisons, Then & Now

December 13th, 2008 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

On Louisa’s Walk we take our audiences right through Louisa’s Story from arrest,sentencing & conviction. Yes, we keep parts of the transportation deliberately lighthearted at times (rowing across the “road” into Degraves Street is always good for a few laughs as the “frigates”, “cutters” and “whaling ships” (cars & trucks!) whizz by). Or then there’s the “Odd One” that Louisa always puts on the tiller! Remember, we are story-tellers and we know the necessity for highs and lows, light and shade. BUT, as soon as we cross those grim gates at the Female Factory (Women’s Prison) the mood becomes sombre. This is intentional. To pretend that life within those walls was anything other than a miserable hell-on-earth would be doing those fifteen thousand poor souls who passed through those awful gates a grave disservice.

The change of mood is palpable; as Louisa is curtly told she may not keep the treasured quilt she has counted on to bring her solace and luck, the audience become stilled - you can hear a pin drop. We have become used to the looks of disbelief and horror as we tell of daily life in the “Shadow of Death Valley”. Tears in the Nursery Yard are not uncommon.

Therefore, it was with great interest that we took a large group of women out on Louisa’s Walk recently, who had all come to Hobart for the Women in Corrective Services Convention. They had spent the morning visiting the Facility for Women at Risdon Prison - the modern version of the Female Factory. They were fascinated by the nineteenth century prison model: tales of solitary confinement in Dark Cells and Iron Collars worn for minor infringements could hardly compare with the relative “luxury” of today’s prison. Questions flew thick and fast at the end and Chris was kept on his toes answering them. It was fulfilling and satisfying for us to have an audience with such a background in, and knowledge of, women’s corrective services.

These women came from all sorts of backgrounds: some had been in prison themselves, others worked in corrective or social services. It would have been fascinating to have a discussion with them at length to see how they saw the differences that two hundred years have brought to prison reform. Is it better? Hopefully! Does it reform? Hopefully! Is the deprivation of freedom ever the answer ………………..?

All these questions are way too big for this forum but if you have an opinion why not reply to this blog? Better still why not visit Louisa’s Walk next time you are in Hobart & discuss it with us afterwards?



Mainland Schools Visit Louisa’s Walk

October 5th, 2008 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

Last week Tottenham Central School from N.S.W. visited Louisa’s Walk as part of a five day excursion to Tasmania. The teachers told me that the students had been fundraising for a long time to raise the money needed for the trip - well done everyone. It’s great for students to work to achieve goals and to understand that rewards, such as travel, come as a result.
They were a great audience and, even though the majority of the class of 23 was made up largely of boys, they were attentive and supportive of our performance. Even though Louisa’s story is, naturally about a woman we find that it appeals equally to both male and female simply because it is a mesmerising story. Right back as far as early man, human beings have communicated using storytelling. Louisa’s Walk communicates factual history in such a way that by the end, the audience has absorbed almost by osmosis, heaps of historical information. We like to compare experiencing Louisa’s Walk with reading a well researched historical novel whereas the guided tour is like a history text book.

I felt a real moment of “YES!” when, walking along the road as Louisa heading for the Female Factory, I heard a group of girls talking behind me, one said “Imagine what it would have been like to have lived then and put up with all this. I would rather have been tipped over the side (of the transportation ship)”. If we can achieve “imagine whats” from an age group that is traditionally not very interested in our past, I think we are succeeding in, at the very least, stimulating an interest in our history. I particularly like showcasing Louisa’s story to teenage girls just so that they can appreciate the hard won freedom that woman (in some parts of the world) enjoy today.

The teacher organising Tottenham Central’s excursion was kind enough to email us to tell us that Louisa’s Walk had been one of the best activities on their trip to Tasmania. Thanks Guys!

Another mainland school to have visited Louisa’s Walk is Somerset College from Queensland who come over for a trip, to experience the winter cold of June in Tasmania, every year.. They discovered us two years ago and have booked in for their third visit next June already - we look forward to meeting the students and taking them on Louisa’s journey.



Louisa Takes a Break

September 26th, 2008 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

Louisa’s Walk has been going for three years without any sort of a break so, Chris and I decided that, this Southern Hemisphere winter, we would close the business down for a couple of months during July and August. We are both English born, with Chris’s mother & six brothers between us to go & visit, so, accommodation over in UK, is never a problem!

We had a wonderful time and, apart from catching up with all those family members (plus sundry cousins) we also wanted to see what the tourism scene is up to over there. Specifically we really wanted to see if anyone is doing anything like “Louisa’s Walk” over there. Well, admittedly we didn’t go everywhere & see everything (you’d need a lifetime for that!) but we didn’t find anyone who is interpreting history using the medium of Strolling Theatre as we do on “Louisa’s Walk.” There were plenty of dressed up tour guides taking tourists around stately homes and very lovely they were, but nowhere could we find a play-on-the-move like ours. The nearest thing we found to “Louisa’s Walk” was “Bizarre Bath” which, interestingly, is one of the top recommended things to do in Bath on the TripAdviser site as is “Louisa’s Walk” for Hobart on the same site. It just happens that Chris’s mother lives just 25 minutes drive from Bath so, we were determined to do “Bizarre Bath” before we left. It was described as “a Comedy Walk” and I have rarely laughed so much! Stu. the Rabbit (or should that read “Stew”) will always remain in my memory as he floated limply on the murky waters of the River Avon. The precious ring, belonging to some luckless punter, floating up into the sky, later miraculously returned by a resurrected Stu. the Rabbit. Then oh!- then - the poor punter (ME!) marched off to the stocks to have carrots thrown at me and my head (almost) cut off! “Bizarre Bath” deservedly earns its “best activity to do in Bath” ticket, as decreed by Tripadviser. So, it is with some pride to see that “Louisa’s Walk” also features very highly on the “Best Things to do in Hobart” TripAdviser Site. If we can equal “Bizarre Bath’s” professionalism and entertainment value we are more than happy - they have been operating for 17 years!

Apart from “Bizarre Bath” what were our highlights? The wonderful city of York (where I was born) and the Undercroft of its Minster, Derbyshire and the High Peaks District, Bath itself, glorious hanging baskets, the thatched cottages of Bratton or Stonehenge seen through the morning mists as we drove to Heathrow on the morning of our departure? Who knows? All I do know is that it’s wonderful to be home, on the most beautiful island in the world, Tasmania, where Louisa is once again showcasing our convict women’s history.



A Replica Rajah Quilt and Convict Bonnets.

May 16th, 2008 by Judith | 1 Comment - click to view »

I was thrilled this morning to receive a phone call from Leanne McKenzie of Coffs Harbour. Leanne and her husband Kevin, came on Louisa’s Walk last November. The purpose of Leanne’s call was to tell me that she is going to make a small, replica of the famous Rajah Quilt and she would like to donate it to “Louisa” to carry in her basket! I was quite overwhelmed at such a generous offer and naturally I enthusiastically accepted.

Leanne is visiting the upcoming Sydney Quilting Exhibition where she is hoping to purchase some replica fabrics of the era. I told her that in my research I had discovered that twenty of the pieces were sewn in the wrong way round. At first, experts were puzzled by the fact that twenty pieces had faded in contrast to the others; on closer examination it was discovered that those twenty pieces had been sewn in reverse side up indicating that this work had been executed in poor light. I should imagine that, except during the times when the women were allowed up on deck, the light would always have been very poor which makes the intricacy of the quilt all the more amazing. I also reminded Leanne that on the reverse side of the quilt tiny pinpricks of blood can be seen where the women had pricked themselves with the motion of the boat. I am sure that Leanne will replicate these in her desire to be authentic. However, she did tell me that the original quilt is not lined so, on the reverse, there are a lot of raw seams. We both agreed that, in order to survive life at the bottom of Louisa’s basket, it should be lined, so that will be one compromise to practicality we will allow. For updates on the progress of the quilt - watch this blog post. If anyone has comments or questions to make about Leanne’s project please don’t hesitate to contact me and I will pass them on to her.

I am not sure how long it will take Leanne to make her miniature, replica Rajah Quilt but all those of you who are yet to come on Louisa’s Walk will have the privilege of seeing it when she has!

On another related topic. Chris and I went down to the Mawson Pavilion on Hobart’s waterfront, after the afternoon performance of Louisa’s Walk today, to visit Christina Henri’s “Roses From the Heart” bonnet display. Christina, a local artist and historian has undertaken to mount a display of 25,566 convict bonnets by the year 2010, representing each of the women sentenced to transportation to the Colonies. Despite a broken leg, Christina had mounted a beautiful display of some of the thousands of bonnets she has received so far, some skillfully embroidered and decorated with lace. All bear the name of a convict woman who was transported to the Colonies all those years ago.

Naturally, this project has appealed to Australians who have a female convict ancestor but it is not limited to them. If you enjoy sewing and want to feel a link with these brave, enduring women who form the backbone of our nation, why not contribute a bonnet and be part of this unique tribute? A pattern can be downloaded from Christina’s web site @ www.christinahenri.com.au or email Christina to find other ways to support the project: cjhenri@iinet.net.au. Louisa will also be carrying copies of the pattern to give out after Louisa’s Walk. Perhaps someone could do a Louisa’s Walk bonnet?



Autumn in South Hobart.

April 28th, 2008 by Judith | 1 Comment - click to view »

Louisa’s Walk starts at the top of the beautiful Cascade Gardens in South Hobart. At this time of year the plane trees are dropping their huge leaves and there is a carpet to crunch through! Yesterday, I was waiting to make my entrance as Louisa behind one of the big evergreen trees when I heard a Dad calling excitedly to his children “Quick, kids there’s a platypus!”. It was all I could do not to break ranks and rush over to have a look too but my cue wasn’t far off and I knew I didn’t have the time. I have always wanted to see a platypus in the waters of the Hobart Rivulet which run alongside the Cascade Gardens and were responsible for flooding parts of the Female Factory when it was in operation. I had heard that the shy and gentle monotremes lived in the waters higher up but never dreamed we would see them so low down nearly in the centre of Hobart!

However, it was time for Louisa to make her entrance and get nicked for stealing her loaf of bread so the sight of a platypus was reserved for another occasion. There was something special about yesterday’s performance though. When it came time for Louisa to cradle her baby and tell of the trauma of losing her (often a place where the hankies come out) it became really emotional for me. Words flowed and so did tears, expressions I had not used before. Louisa’s Walk seems to have a life of its own and this was so just then. Our audience was with us at every step, laughing, crying - we feed off you and your response and energy gives a different life to each performance. People often ask us if we get sick of performing the same thing every day? No way! Every performance is different and it all depends on you, our lovely audiences, the ones who seek us out. The ones who are looking for something different to do in Hobart.

As we finished and came out of our characters at the end of Louisa’s Walk, underneath the same plane trees from which we started, the wind whipped that carpet of leaves into a flurry. They were whirling everywhere in a display of nature’s force. The children were still there who had seen the platypus. I asked them if he was still in sight? “He’s hiding” they said “But we know where he lives”.

Next time perhaps?



Louisa’s Walk - Minimalist and Interactive Theatre!

April 18th, 2008 by Judith | 2 Comments - click to view »

What a week it’s been, with NSW school holidays, we have taken so many families out on Louisa’s Walk. One day we had two family groups plus a lady in a wheelchair travelling with her husband. A big range of ages and mobility presents a bit of a challenge but we are more than able to rise to it. I used to teach speech and drama so am able to include the children in lots of interactive ways. Not only does this make it more interesting for the children but their parents and other adults enjoy watching the interaction.

When the group is large enough, we line everyone up in the Assignables Yard. We all stand straight and tall as Chris, in one of his many roles, walks up and down choosing which “woman” to hire as a servant. I will have pre-warned everyone not to pick up the scarf (which is how the masters would indicate their selection) without first looking at me (Louisa). There is lots of tension as he makes his choice. Again in the Chapel, Chris always gives his little bell to a primary age child and they ring it on his nod as he explains the daily routine of the Female Factory. Older boys love being posted as the guard who will warn me when the overseer is returning in the Crime Yard, “psst- Louisa -he’s coming!”

What a working bee we had doing the wash this week as I got the girls to help me at the tubs and the boys to haul water. Whilst I am not at all gender biased you have to understand it was the girls who did the washing! I love the fact that, once the children have got used to our minimalist theatre they go along with the mime. There is hardly any infrastructure left at the Cascades Female Factory just imposing sandstone walls. But we paint the yards with our words…………. The prison becomes so real as the audience is drawn into our story. Again and again we hear the comment “You really take us there”. Our theatre is minimalist and powerful.

Our week culminated today with some passengers from the “Sapphire Princess” the huge cruise ship that has been making regular calls into Hobart this season (and this is her last one before returning to the United States for their summer season). They had found us because they had seen good reviews on Trip Advisor. They had just typed in “Things to do in Hobart” and there we were. We love people who find us this way, individuals looking for a different experience in Hobart. Something memorable and unique;the very antithesis of being herded onto a coach and just being part of a crowd. I learn everyone’s names on Louisa and treat our audience members as friends!

A TAFE student commented last week, “As Louisa’s Walk came to an end, it was like coming out of a very powerful movie - you are not ready for the real world”.

I’m happy with that.



Australia’s Southernmost School Visits Louisa’s Walk

March 30th, 2008 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

The Primary School on the beautiful island of Bruny (named after the French explorer Bruny D’Entrecasteaux) lays claim to being Australia’s southernmost school. They may not know it (they seemed far too modest) but in our opinion it can also claim to having some wonderful, intelligent and enthusiastic pupils.

‘Louisa’s Walk’ has developed a Primary School version of their award-winning convict drama and many who have experienced it say it is a great, innovative way to teach history. The students really live Louisa’s story and become part of the action which makes it so memorable they learn by osmosis.

On the fine March day when the Bruny Island School walked in Louisa’s shoes, they were visiting from their island home to participate in a swimming carnival in Hobart. As their coach pulled up and the students tumbled out it was gratifying to see that many had made the effort to dress up in period clothes to help create the 19th century atmosphere. From the very start, as Louisa introduced herself and her story, it was obvious this was going to be an engaged (and engaging) group. The Grade teachers had done the preparation and the students were well up on their convict history. Hands went shooting up when Louisa asked how long the average journey from England to Van Diemens Land would take. With four grades represented it was easy to allocate the four tasks for the transportation ship “The Rajah”: Grade Three was the ‘Wind’, Grade Four, ‘Patchworkers’, Grade Five, ‘Ropes’ and Grade Six, ‘Anchor Party’. ‘The Rajah’ was away on another voyage of discovery as she disembarked her passengers on Hobart wharf and they began their long walk up to the Female Factory (you are asked to bring bucket loads of imagination on Louisa’s Walk!)

Once between the grim walls of the Female Factory students learn of the yards that separate the large Yard One. They line up to be selected as a servant to go out as an assigned servant, they attend the Sunday Muster in fear and trembling lest it is their crime that will send them to the crime Yard (don’t worry it’s always Louisa!). The usual hush descends as Louisa’s story reaches its sad end BUT it is then that the Bruny Island students really show us their mettle! It is question time and Louisa and William have come out of character and introduced themselves properly to the audience of students and staff. “Any questions?” Chris asks. Hands are raised thicker than the hairs on a cat’s back as these lively and enquiring minds pick our brains for answers to the questions that the experience has stimulated. Some questions so deep and insightful that it gave us food for thought. Eventually staff had to call a halt because it was lunchtime!

Thanks Bruny Island for a wonderful visit.



Please Don’t Rain on My Parade.

February 26th, 2008 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

(posted by Judith). We are often asked at Louisa’s Walk “What happens if it rains?”. Well, Hobart is the second driest capital city in Australia so, it’s not too much of a problem BUT…….Last Saturday we set off on the afternoon show with grey skies promising at least a shower. Louisa duly handed out the large umbrellas stored, for just such an eventuality, in the boot of our “horseless carriage” and off we went. We got through most of the performance only slightly damp until it was time for the “time warp” back into the 21st century when the heavens opened. Chris in one of his many alter egos gathered everyone together and we herded the group back up to the top of the Cascades. Most of the story had been told in any case. Two teenagers who had refused umbrellas were more than a little damp with black make up running - we all had a good laugh (including them)! In this soggy, but merry, mood we continued back up through the beautiful Cascade Gardens. Now, just in case any of us were tempted to feel just a little sorry for ourselves (Louisa and William who, as the actors, can’t use umbrellas?) there we were met with a sorry sight: a wedding party! The picturesque gardens are a popular venue for weddings and, on a sunny Tasmanian day I can think of nowhere lovelier but ……….The guests were huddled without umbrellas, men with white shirts sticking to their chests, women in skimpy dresses, high heels sinking into the sodden grass. On the way back down the Cascade road we passed the bridal party in their beribboned car. What is it they say about there always being somebody worse off than you? Let’s hope the reception went off really well and that it was somewhere warm and dry!



The Rajah Quilt.

February 8th, 2008 by Judith | Click to leave a comment »

If you are one of the many who are fascinated by the traditional craft of patchwork then the story of the Rajah Quilt told on Louisa’s Walk will have great appeal. Convict women travelling out to Van Diemens Land were supplied with two pound bags of patchwork pieces to give them something to do on the long voyage. It also taught those without any sewing skills, a valuable craft useful for future employment and, as Louisa would tell you, the BEST bit is they were allowed to keep whatever they made! On board The Rajah, leaving London in 1841, there were a number of convict women who were skilled in needlework and under the tutelage of a free settler named Kezia Hayter they pooled all their pieces to make a fantastic quilt which later became known as The Rajah Quilt. The idea behind this beautiful presentation quilt, consisting of over three thousand pieces, was as a thank you to Elizabeth Fry, the benefactor behind the quilting pieces. Fortunately the women had the foresight to embroider onto the quilt an inscription for posterity telling who made the quilt, where and when and for whom it was destined. On arrival in Hobart Town the quilt was duly dispatched back to England to be given to Elizabeth Fry. She died some four years later. Her Great (x4) Grand-daughter is now living in Tasmania and she joined us on Louisa’s Walk a few days ago!
The quilt disappeared for decades but was re-discovered just over twenty years ago in Scotland. Thanks to the inscription the finder realised its historical importance and it has now been returned to Australia to our National Gallery In Canberra. It is said that tiny pinpricks of blood can be seen on the reverse where the women pricked their fingers with the motion of the ship!
The Rajah Quilt is just one of the many fascinating stories that you will hear on Louisa’s Walk. Perhaps, when you come you may be the one selected to teach Louisa patchwork?